Jodhpur (Mar 16-18)

Upon arrival at the Jodphur bus station, we wanted to duck out of view ASAP when we noticed the rickshaw drivers searching for us white folks (before we even got off the bus) in hopes they can convince us to go to their friend's guest house (where they will be paid a commission by the guest house owner - which of course is extracted from our pocket via the price of our room). We truly feel like moving targets sometimes ;)

We managed to find yet another guest house with a view of a fort..... and what a fort it is. John feels that it is the most imposing structure he's ever seen - that is not an easy list to make!

Below is a view on the uphill approach to the main gate of the fort, it is quite incredible to take in the enormity of the facade - it is imposing. They are very proud that this fort was never taken in its history ... unbelievable in a way that someone even thought to try!


Upon our arrival at the gate, it seemed as though the fort was suddenly being stormed by Rajasthani warriors on horseback wielding swords and spears!



Much to our relief, a big Bollywood movie was being shot on location at the fort - it really added to the experience to see horses and men clad in regalia that was indicative of the era. It is interesting to note that even though there were movie stars somewhere at the fort, the locals are still eager to say hello and chat with us - so bold and friendly! Lori wouldn't know who the stars were even if they were mounted on a horse and said hello to her while she approached to touch the nose of their horse!

All that aside, the fort (another view from our guesthouse rooftop restaurant above) is composed of mainly red stone (except for structures they painted) and we again see the intricate screen carvings that are so prevalent in earlier Rajasthan architecture. Many murals are still preserved and the three palaces contained inside still show their original , but aged, beauty. From pearl-like walls (achieved by crushing egg shells and adding them to the paint), stained glass windows, mirrored ceilings and painted floors (which look like carpet) to portraits of maharajas painted directly on ceilings and mythical scenes painted directly on walls. These were all meant to create opulant settings for romance, inspiration for artists and regality for business. Below is one shot of the palace located inside the fort walls.

All this, set behind 7 gates and a wall that is 40 feet deep in some places to allow for horses and canons to move along the top. This fort has never been taken - although it had a close call, after which the 7th gate was added as a victory gate (however one wonders if was added for insurance!!).

Did we mention the view of the city below?? Amazing views of the surrounding old city (mostly indigo painted houses), the new city and the land stretching beyond.


Next on the list was to head for a white marble structure in the distance.

This turns out to be a tomb for the Maharajah's of Jodphur, although 'small', is still inspiring as it is entirely made from carved white marble...everything, including the tables and chairs inside. When all this white marble is coupled with the bright sun pouring in from the arid pre-monsoon climate outside, it creates a soft, light airiness that lends to a sense of peace.

In India, peace is a welcome respite. For foreigners such as we, amid the hustle and bustle of everyday Indian life, the sights, sounds and yes, sometimes smells can take its toll. It is quite difficult to continue past beautiful children with matted hair, old clothes, bare feet and dirty faces who run up to you just to say 'hi' and how the returned greeting creates the most excited response; to realize you should lower your voice on your evening walk back to your guest house because a family is sleeping by the road; to witness an elderly woman shoo a cow away while competing for garbage territory; to restrain a gag when walking on the street near an open sewer; or to notice a dog's scared run when you move too suddenly.

India is laden with beauty and suffering. One needs to take time to process it all.

As with Udaipur, Jodhpur is a maze of narrow streets with 3 and 4 storey buildings sandwiched side-by-side - some are guest houses while some are homes and restaurants or other businesses. Without a map one gets lost very quickly (even with a map usually too!) - thankfully, there are many Indians who are quite adept at noticing lost looks on tourist's faces and are very willing to offer help (followed by the usual...where you from? what's your name? what's your profession? are you married?)... we are grateful :D