Saturday, May 16, 2009

The Dead Sea and the Sea of Galilee.... (May 11-14)

After several days in Jerusalem, we decided the best option to see more of Israel was to rent a car. The first destination on the list was the Dead Sea - it's much too legendary to miss! Upon leaving Jerusalem, the road begins to descend and you quickly pass into desert landscape, dropping down to -1300 feet (below sea level) - this is the lowest point on earth. While the altitude decreases, the air temperature increases incredibly! Here's a view of the landscape along the way as well as one of many beautiful approach sights of the Dead Sea.










After about an hour you reach a beach where you can park, change clothes and 'attempt' to go for a swim. We say 'attempt' because the buoyancy effect is truly unlike anything we've ever experienced before - it is amazing! It's virtually impossible to swim on your stomach because your feet keep floating to the surface making kicking ineffectual. It is possible to lie on your back and potentially read a book. Sinking isn't an option! Of course this incredible buoyancy is due to the high salt content in the water soooo, if you have any open wound...it really stings!!!. For instance, even the act of shaving that morning left John's skin a wee bit sensitive and it hurt getting his face wet ;(











From the Dead Sea, another 20 minutes away, you reach Massada, a hill top ruin of what was once King Herod's (of the Bible times) palace. Thankfully, we could avail of the gondola to the top - it was so hot outside that an inclined trek might have done us in!



















Later in 70AD, it also became the last stronghold of the Jewish rebellion against the Romans. One takes a cable car up about 500m where you get these amazing panoramic views over the Dead Sea and try to imagine firstly the view's from Herod's palace and then that final seige the Romans made on the Jews - it was no small feat! The Romans finally ended the seige by building an earthen ramp up the 500m and moving a tower up the ramp that could batter down the gate...however, by the time they got in they found the whole population (men, women, and children) had done themselves in, rather than be captured and enslaved by those nasty Romans.

After Massada we drove an hour back north, hoping to find a hotel for the night in the city of Jericho. This is now an exclusively Palestinian town and we had to pass through both and Israeli and Palestinian checkpoints to get in....no problem at all though...not really any questions were asked...I guess we looked safe. Once 'inside' Jericho a town of perhaps 30,000 or so, it was looking pretty run down and spread out. Lots of partly finished concrete blocks and a small central area with shops, restuarants and a zillion traffic police! While having some roast chicken here, 6 platoons of Palestinian soldiers in training came and jogged around townsquare chanting and then again disappeared. Their clothing was looking kind of ragged and of several different styles, so it seemed like they were short of equipment...such as a basic uniform! So it then turned out that finding a hotel was problematic. You had a choice of either ultra-dirty/shabby or two 150$ night resorts...very bizare. We opted for the latter... which couldn't have been more than 10% occupied. Jericho is clearly not a stop on the tourist trail these days (there being nothing of historical value that still seems to be standing here).

The next morning, we began a 2 hr drive north up the Jordan valley towards the Sea of Galillee. We made a small detour to check out the baptismal site on the River Jordan .... First, we had to pass a check point where we were instructed to keep straight until we reached the river. Couldn't really drive in any other direction due to barbed wire fences and signs saying "Danger - Land Mines"....okay so we will stay straight! We truly felt as though we were passing through 'no mans land'. A bit eerie but it was totally fine and we had the place to ourselves - we passed a busload of tourists as we headed back ;)

We also decided to make a stop in Beth Sha'an - this is a modern town built around the ruins of an ancient Roman city by the same name. They have unearthed approximately 10% of what was there and it is pretty impressive already! Below are photos showing the main collonaded street, theatre, building facades, bath houses, fountains and amazingly preserved mosaics. It is important to note that, as with just about every ancient city here, there were many changes in rulership and therefore much was destroyed and rebuilt and for this city, its end was an earthquake - they have left some pillars and arches as they were found in their toppled state. Biblically speaking this is the city where the bodies of King Saul and his sons were 'placed on display' after they died in battle.



















We arrived on the shores of Galilee later that day. It is a beautiful area - the large lake and surrounding countryside are relatively peaceful with the only city being that of resort-oriented Tiberius which we of course passed by. After finding a bungalow as close to the ancient ruins of Capernaum as we could, we headed for the shoreline as the ancient town and the Mount of Beatitudes were closed for the day.

The shores of Galilee are a very special place - you can feel it. It is beautiful, peaceful and powerful. All we could think of was the time Jesus spent here and the lives He touched and the ministry He began.











The following morning we headed for the Mount of Beatitudes. An incredible view with hundreds of people holding special worship services in various places throughout the gardens. It was very uplifting to hear Spanish, Italian, Indian and English voices praising God! There are no words to describe it. We found a little bench and read the sermon on the Mount ...... to reflect on those words is powerful and , as always, giving the soul much to ponder.....bread indeed.












It was hard to leave but the town of Capernaum was waiting.....what remains is the foundation of the small homes and a second synagogue which was built on the foundation of the original synagogue where Jesus would have preached.


As time was running short, we left for a drive through the countryside where Jesus would have walked to Cana and Nazareth. We did not stop here as there are no sights to see just a large town and city. We continued west toward the Mediterranean just around the outskirts of Haifa then south along the coast to the ancient ruins of Cesearia. Another amazing place still being excavated - among the features here are a hypodrome where horse races were held along with other games of athleticism were held and an aquaduct that was 3.5 kms long - check that out!










Well, a quick nap in Tel Aviv and an early morning flight to Amsterdam brings this short but exciting leg of the journey to a close and opens a much anticipated time with family in Holland!




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